SKBC Notes

[kiru]

Ok so i was going threw some old paperwork and i ran across some old skbc notes i took when i went o so long ago, well i decided to post them here as i find them the first one i found is body mechanics;

some key points:
.stay on the balls of your feet
.stay moving
...the one who controls the distance controls the fight and will win
.don't do fancy stuff,...there is a time and place for that
.don't fall on your ass..if you do make it epic
.relax and don't freeze up
.any movement you need to do you can do casually
. if you need to go faster then you can casually move there faster
if you run or lowzy over you'll mos likely fall
falling is dumb and that will get you killed
.movement is key and should be a flowing motion

and with this your grip is very very very important

"if you hold the bird to tightly you'll kill it; if you hold the bird to loosely it'll fly away"

that is very true for your weapon too, if you hold it to tight then you will wear down your muscles and tier you out before you really do anything and if you hold it to lose then your weapon will fly away and then there goes your only way to defend yourself.
also a tense/ tight muscle can not! and i mean can not move as fast as a relax muscle can. keep your whole body relax and flowing like water till the very last second when you strike then become ridged like ice.

also don't get ahead of yourself practice one thing and get good with it then move on to other more advance stuff, if you practice and put a movement into muscle memory then it is easier to transfer it to other weapon styles

this is something that is most often over looked.

other things that can help is one be very unpredictable and do not develop patterns; patterns are very bad!!!
also be aware of your body the more aware of your body wail you are fighting the better off you are and the better you'll transfer that to all your styles.

i know this is very basic but we don't have anything up really like this so here is a first. I'll be writing more and post them up when i have them. ill also write about tactics too. when i have the time.

anyway let me know if these are helpful or not?

also a great trick to help you practice grip is one well holding and swinging your weapon but another is take a foil and wip that in the air wail trying different grips with it you get a feel for what the perfect grip is. also if anyone has any other tips or tricks feel free to post em
we are all about helping each other become the best fighter we possibly can be.

[kiru]

i got some newer notes!!!

Bare Basics of Two Sword

1. Handmatching: the concept of fighting a mirrored opponent. Having two swords gives you
the advantage to always fight as thou you were handmatching. Use it, abuse it.
1.1 Handmatching limits the options your opponent has, thus making them more
predictable. Handmatching also simplifies the idea of inside and outside lanes of attack.
Handmatching helps make defending yourself much easier, thus making it easier for you to
defeat your opponent.
2. Hand Position
2.1 handmatched hand (or main hand) positioned in a standard denial guard, and is also
placed as the closest hand to your opponent. You want this hand high enough to be defend
your upper arm and protect against handmatched pocket stabs, but you also want this hand
low enough to protect your handmatched hip and up leg. many people have their
handmatched hand too high.
2.2 non handmatched hand (or off hand) positioned in a baiting guard (depending on
who i'm fighting it ranges from a flat baiting guard to a 45 degree baiting guard). the height of
your off hand is dependent on the distance between you and your opponent, the height of, and
the raw speed of your opponent. (if you don't know anything about your opponent it is better
to favor a safer hand position.)
3. Foot Position
3.1 handmatched foot forward, toe pointed directly at your opponent. just like in single
sword.
4. Center Line, never ever ever ever ever ever cross your centerline. Fight hand for hand, your
left hand vs their right hand, your right hand vs their left.

5. Inside and Outside lanes.
5.1 these are the lanes of attack, think of your two swords becoming a frame work of
defense that keeps all outside attacks from hitting your body. with that frame work you create
two lanes. the inside, which is inside your swords and where you body is, and the outside,
which is outside your swords and where you are more likely to suffer arm or leg hits as opposed
to body shots.
5.2 protect your inside, forcing your opponents outside, do this by keeping your guard
tight enough to your body that you give the illusion to your opponent that your body isn't a
viable option for assault. but keep your guard far enough out that you cut off easy arm and
wrist shots.
5.3 work stabs, stab feints and body fakes to control inside lanes.
5.4 when is it safe to go outside? It is safe to go outside when you know and
understand the possible consequences of going outside, and knowing how to counter the
possible returns and shots that arise when going outside.

6. Lead with your handmatched hand
6.1 This is one of the tougher concepts for most two sword fighters. Your offhand
(which is usually your right hand) is your defense, it is what keeps you alive, when it stays home
you stay alive. Lead with your main hand, paw with your main hand, your main hand will
almost always be the hand you want to start the fight with, and it is also almost always the kill
hand.
7. Stab protection
7.1 handmatching correctly will go a long way toward protecting you from stabs.
7.2 keep your off hand home, let it divert stabs, pushing them off your centerline.
Here is where I'm hoping to let the class open up into more of a discussion, and from here we
will get into the more advanced idea's of two sword fighting. If you guys are really advanced
then you should be able to join into the discussion of advanced ideas of two sword fighting.
Here are some points of discussion:
~What makes people advanced with two swords?
~Ambidexterity?
~Strengths vs. weaknesses of two swords
~How to fight right handed vs. left handed people.
~How to fight against other two sword fighters.
~How to fight against sword board.
~How to fight poles.
~How to fight single sword.
~Is it ever ok to cross?
~When can you go outside?
~What are some good leads?

1. Positioning

A. Grip = modified saber, turn wrist out. It is very important to have the correct grip. It makes learning
everything else so much easier.

B. Stance = Feet positioning, Keep knees bent at all times. Arm positioning is the most important but
will be covered by basic block strike.

There are two ways to stand

1. Sword foot forward, or On foot forward as some people call it
2. Off foot forward. Goofy footed as some people call it

C. Guard = Positioning of the sword

2. There are 4 major guards

A. Denial Guard. … Sword held straight up, tip slightly to opponent... Closing outside or inside off to
attacks by placing a heavy guard there

B. Bait Guard. … Sword held parallel to the ground and away from the body. This stance is used to bait
your opponents into predictable openers based on sword height from the ground.

C.
Ranging Guard...Sword pointed at opponent held away from your body. This stance forces the opponent
to deal with sword before you can throw a normal opener ...also used to maneuver or position your
opponent by changing the angle at which your sword is pointed at him
D. Open Guard... Arm is relaxed and sword is pointed down This stance is used to draw a opponent in or
to close the distance, by appearing to be out of position

3. The 10 Shots = These are the shots we show people how to throw correctly. They are more to know
correct form and terminology when I am referring to a certain shot before any other training can begin.
Not all shots are created equal but they all have a time and a place to be used.
A. Five basic flat wraps = Outside Flat wrap, Rising wrap aka scoop shot, Shoulder wrap, Crossing Flat
wrap, Rising cross aka reverse scoop. These are the most basic of the wraps, pretty much a must learn
first before anything else. Practice these ALOT
B. The High cross = what most people throw wrong. Leaves allot open and is over used ... ala the flat
high cross is the proper name / form.
C. The Slot Shot = A good lead or a good repost after a block to the outside or inside from a medium
range...usually thrown for shoulder or high chest areas
D. Hacking / chopping shot = usually a shot thrown after a parry when in close, to maximize speed and
still keep a good guard.
E. Quick Stab = Usually at lower torso, one of the quickest attacks
F. Hook Stab = Just that, a stab that hooks in, making it harder to read and block
4. Blocking and Reposting
A. Don’t over-block
B. Turn the torso ... don’t reach with the hands when learning
C. Raise and lower center of gravity to block and riposte
D. Economics of motion = The less sword travel the better

5. Fakes
A. Feints = Using your sword to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
B. Stutters = Using your footwork to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
C. Body Fakes = Using your body to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
D. Baiting = Using stance and positioning to draw an opponent into a predictable opener or series of
shots with a easy riposte
E. Reading = Using all your skills to guess/predict what the opponent will do next or what they will do if
presented with various shots or openings

[kiru]

D. Open Guard... Arm is relaxed and sword is pointed down This stance is used to draw a opponent in or
to close the distance, by appearing to be out of position

3. The 10 Shots = These are the shots we show people how to throw correctly. They are more to know
correct form and terminology when I am referring to a certain shot before any other training can begin.
Not all shots are created equal but they all have a time and a place to be used.
A. Five basic flat wraps = Outside Flat wrap, Rising wrap aka scoop shot, Shoulder wrap, Crossing Flat
wrap, Rising cross aka reverse scoop. These are the most basic of the wraps, pretty much a must learn
first before anything else. Practice these ALOT
B. The High cross = what most people throw wrong. Leaves allot open and is over used ... ala the flat
high cross is the proper name / form.
C. The Slot Shot = A good lead or a good repost after a block to the outside or inside from a medium
range...usually thrown for shoulder or high chest areas
D. Hacking / chopping shot = usually a shot thrown after a parry when in close, to maximize speed and
still keep a good guard.
E. Quick Stab = Usually at lower torso, one of the quickest attacks
F. Hook Stab = Just that, a stab that hooks in, making it harder to read and block
4. Blocking and Reposting
A. Don’t over-block
B. Turn the torso ... don’t reach with the hands when learning
C. Raise and lower center of gravity to block and riposte
D. Economics of motion = The less sword travel the better

5. Fakes
A. Feints = Using your sword to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
B. Stutters = Using your footwork to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
C. Body Fakes = Using your body to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
D. Baiting = Using stance and positioning to draw an opponent into a predictable opener or series of
shots with a easy riposte
E. Reading = Using all your skills to guess/predict what the opponent will do next or what they will do if
presented with various shots or openings

C. Guard = Positioning of the sword

2. There are 4 major guards

A. Denial Guard. … Sword held straight up, tip slightly to opponent... Closing outside
or inside off to attacks by placing a heavy guard there

B. Bait Guard. … Sword held parallel to the ground and away from the body. This
stance is used to bait your opponents into predictable openers based on sword height from
the ground.

C. Ranging Guard...Sword pointed at opponent held away from your body. This stance
forces the opponent to deal with sword before you can throw a normal opener ...also used
to maneuver or position your opponent by changing the angle at which your sword is
pointed at him
D. Open Guard... Arm is relaxed and sword is pointed down This stance is used to draw
a opponent in or to close the distance, by appearing to be out of position
3. The 10 Shots = These are the shots we show people how to throw correctly. They are
more to know correct form and terminology when I am referring to a certain shot before
any other training can begin. Not all shots are created equal but they all have a time and a
place to be used.
A. Five basic flat wraps = Outside Flat wrap, Rising wrap aka scoop shot, Shoulder
wrap, Crossing Flat wrap, Rising cross aka reverse scoop. These are the most basic of
the wraps, pretty much a must learn first before anything else. Practice these ALOT
B. The High cross = what most people throw wrong. Leaves allot open and is over used
... ala the flat high cross is the proper name / form.
C. The Slot Shot = A good lead or a good repost after a block to the outside or inside
from a medium range...usually thrown for shoulder or high chest areas
D. Hacking / chopping shot = usually a shot thrown after a parry when in close, to
maximize speed and still keep a good guard.
E. Quick Stab = Usually at lower torso, one of the quickest attacks
F. Hook Stab = Just that, a stab that hooks in, making it harder to read and block

4. Blocking and Reposting
A. Don’t over-block
B. Turn the torso ... don’t reach with the hands when learning
C. Raise and lower center of gravity to block and riposte
D. Economics of motion = The less sword travel the better


5. Fakes
A. Feints = Using your sword to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of
position
B. Stutters = Using your footwork to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out
of position
C. Body Fakes = Using your body to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out
of position
D. Baiting = Using stance and positioning to draw an opponent into a predictable
opener or series of shots with a easy riposte
E. Reading = Using all your skills to guess/predict what the opponent will do next
or what they will do if presented with various shots or openings
Block-Strike


This drill is to teach reading and blocking skills, and to a lesser degree, develop common
patterns and teach shot placement skills.

Setup:
Requires 2 fighters, each fighter uses swords of the same length, (I recommend 32"-36"
swords). Each fighter stands one sword length apart, from the toes of their forward legs.
The forward leg is determined by which hand is being used, if your sword is in your right
hand your right foot goes in front. Two shot locations are then selected. (Note: it is
important to select one of the two shots to be an inside lane shot and one an outside lane
shot.)

Rules:
Once each fighter has their forward foot placed properly, that foot becomes planted and is
not allowed to move, but it also becomes a pivot foot because the back foot is allowed to
move freely, thus maintaining a constant distance between the two fighters. Each fighter
then starts taking turns swinging shots at their partner; each fighter is allotted one shot
per turn. Once a shot is delivered blocked or not the other fighter will return with their
shot. (Limiting the shot locations to the two target areas that were selected) Once the
fighters have gone back and forth delivering and blocking shots for sixty seconds one of
the two fighters must switch hands, put corresponding foot forward get their spacing right
and begin again after 60 seconds rest. Repeat this process alternating who switches
hands until each fighter has fought with both hands for two rotations, and in consequence
all combinations of hands have been worked, (left on left, left on right, right on left, and
right on right) Then after significant rest select two new shot locations and do the drill
again. Or if you have more than one friend rotate out so everyone can have some fun.
Hints:
This drill works best when you work hard to build up a rhythm and build up some speed,
delivering as soon as you block. The most important thing to remember about block-
strike is that is more important to block then hit your opponent. Focus on the block
before you focus on the strike, that's why it's called block-strike, not strike-block.


One Footed Block-Strike

Now that you have basic Block-Strike down, there are six other drills that can refine
your technique further. First you should try standing stationary on one foot, either sword
foot, or off foot doesn’t matter at this time. Try doing it with both; most people will have
a foot that they are much better at standing on one foot with. It is important to do the drill
using all hand and feet combinations. After you have finished the drill, what problems did
you have? Are you unsteady, lack of power generation, unable to swing with out falling
over? All of these are indicators of poor form in one way or another. Being unsteady is
usually a basic flaw in your stance, such as leaning, hunching, or poor weight
distribution. Being unable to swing without falling over is a by-product of poor swing
mechanics. Such things as leaning, hunching while throwing, reaching, or just using the
arm to swing are common problems. Power generation is usually from not using your
core muscles when you swing. Practice swinging correctly and you can really feel the
difference. When you can perform all of the basic single sword moves on one foot
without falling over or wobbling like a weeble-wobble you are ready to try the next drill.
Hoppy


Now that you have mastered one footed block strike, we will work on moving your
balance point around. It’s a lovely drill called hoppy. Once again you will go through all
the hand and feet combos you can while doing the drill. Basically you will play Block-
Strike with the one foot on the ground again, but you are allowed to hop side-to-side and
back a bit for better position. You are not trying to hop or run away, but rather use good
form and footwork to put yourself in a better position to block and strike. It’s a very
simple concept and game and its VERY tiring by comparison.


(A)ttack (B)lock (A)ttack

Now that we have worked our basic form, you should be able to go over some basic
attacking and blocking drills. This one is called Attack Block Attack or ABA drills for
short. The basic premise behind this drill is that most fights are decided within the first
few swings, so this drill will focus on that area of combat. This drill will help you learn to
open and not get killed so much on the return attack while teaching the defender how to
get opened on while helping every ones reading skills. You and your partner should start
about six feet apart, just outside sword range by a half step or so. The defender can move
around in these drills but only slightly, basically don’t run away its time to learn to stand
and deliver. In ABA the Attacker closes to range and throws an opener. The defender
attempts to block and returns an attack. The attacker attempts to block that shot and
returns a second attack. Do this drill ten times and switch attacker and defender, rinse and
repeat.


(B)lock (A)ttack (B)lock

This is another basic blocking and attacking drill. This one is called Block Attack
Block drills or BAB for short. The basic premise behind this drill is that most fights are
decided within the first few swings, so this drill will focus on that area of combat. This
drill helps you learn to bait and close while learning not to get hit with openers from the
defender, while he gets a chance to practice reading skills and tries to force the attacker
into predictable patterns. You and your partner should start about six feet apart, just
outside sword range by a half step or so. The defender can move around in these drills but
only slightly, basically don’t run away its time to learn to stand and deliver. In BAB the
attacker closes to range and the defender opens on him, the attacker must then block and
return an attack. The defender attempts to block that shot and returns a second attack. Do
this drill ten times and switch attacker and defender, rinse and repeat.

Pass It On


These drills are handy for learning positioning and reading skills for standing beside
someone. This is one of Frank’s (Shadow) favorite drills and a class favorite every year.
Make a circle with each person 3 feet apart (sword foot forward at first). So you should
have a circle of people right hand sword and right foot forward about three feet apart. The
right foot cannot move, but your off foot is free to pivot like always. One person starts
the drill by attempting to hit the person to his right. The defender attempts to block it and
does the same thing to the person to his or her left. After you have done 10 or 20 rotations
change the direction of the rotation, attempting to strike the person to your right and the
defender tries to block and attacks the person to his or her right. You can do this with any
and all hand and feet combos. It’s a fun little exercise that makes you think about striking
and blocking from odd angles. After you have gotten this system down, you may try the
next drill.

Pass It On, Pass It Back

This drill is just like Pass It On except when the defender gets attacked, they
immediately swing back at the person who just attacked them and then turn to strike the
next person in the circle. That person will then block and swing back at the attacker then
swinging to attack the next person in line. Its easier than it sounds I promise.



Well that’s all I thought I could squeeze into this timeframe. There are a few other
drills we have, but these right here should keep you busy for a while.

[kiru]

here is something good to run at a fighter practice.

Basic Florentine
Instructor: Don Diego Velazquez
I. Introduction: everyone will introduce themselves, their kingdom, fighting
experience, and expectations of the class
II. Stance: definition
A. Drill: partner up and fight, instructor observes
B. Discussion of stances used: call 2 or 3 people with different stances, discuss
strengths/weaknesses
C. Basic strong traits of stance:
1. Body profiled, not square
2. Body/back straight, not hunched or leaning forward
3. Dominant hand forward
4. Knees bent, stand on ball of foot
D. Take Q and A
E. Drill: partner up and fight again, instructor observes, comments, spars a bit
III. Footwork: definition
A. Drill: Play Kill your Killer (about 10 man teams if possible)
B. Point out best “movers”: discuss why they were successful
C. Basic traits of good footwork:
1. Try not to break “profile” unless chasing someone
2. Shuffle feet instead of taking steps
3. Lateral movement and turning round should be observed
4. Speed as a natural advantage
D. Non-combat forms of improving footwork
1. Jumping rope, running, dance, Thor’s footwork class
IV. Controlling range
A. Know your effective striking range, also preference: long vs. short range
B. Estimate your opponent’s range
1. Can use safe shots to estimate this: a shot that will not endanger you
C. Keep out of opponent’s range by moving back or circling
D. Close to your effective range quickly, can be done unexpectedly by shifting from
backward to forward movement
E. Controlling range is especially important with multiple targets
F. Play 2 on 1’s or 3 on 1’s. Instructor observes. Comments.
G. Take Q and A
V. Shots: talk about single sword as basis for Florentine. Very important to develop off
hand dominance
A. Flat: A shot that comes down or across, usually parallel or perpendicular to the
ground
1. Flat cross: bringing down the sword with bent elbow to hit the cross shoulder
a. Define cross and same side
b. Very effective as an opening, can be used at range
2. Slot: shot that comes straight down either on shoulder or chest.
a. Also a good opening, can be used at range
B. Wrap: any shot that wraps the weapon around towards a target by bending elbow
or wrist
1. Shoulder wrap: cross and same side
2. Flat wrap: moves parallel to ground
a. Targets arm, body, or hip
3. Drill: plant legs, face 1 opponent at mid range. Aggressor throws shots with
dominant hand for set time, defender blocks and counters. Switch arms.
C. Hack/Chop: shorter range flat shot, usually a riposte
1. Usually targets arm, but can be used as killing blow
2. Important shot for Florentine fighters
D. Stab: most effective shot against Florentine
1. Hook stab: used primarily for shoulder, side hip
E. Drill: assume combat stance: for 30-60 seconds, aggressor only will attack with
any shot using only dominant hand, opponent blocks. Then, use weak hand as
dominant. Aggressor and opponent switch roles.
F. Non-combat ways to practice
1. Use a pell to practice shots
2. Tennis ball on a string suspended from ceiling: swing it, try to stab
VI. Attacking Theory: basic approach
A. Openings
1. Openings should either be quick kills, safe shots, feints, or shots that lead to
other shots
2. Classic openings with Florentine:
a. Right hand faking shield shoulder to open left hand on sword hip (opposite
side hi/lo)
b. Left hand faking sword hip to open right hand on shield shoulder
c. Left hand strikes opponent’s right hand to immobilize, step to right to use
right on shield hip/back
d. Left hand outside wrap to opponent’s right arm to open for right hand
chop to right arm
B. Be aggressive when attacking
C. Keep battlefield awareness
VII. Conclusion
A. Open fighting

[kiru]

Basic Sword and Shield class SKBC 2010
By Anatole
1. Introductions.
2. Stances/Footwork
Have them all get into stance before going into this part of the lecture so they can compare what they do with
what is right. Having a volunteer to help demonstrate will make life easy.
Feet. L-Stance, direction of stepping.
Body Position: Importance of posture.
Kick all hunchers in groin.
Take time now to go through and correct everyone's stance.
Offensive vs. Defensive: why offensive is not being taught.
Movement: Drill movement in each direction (mirror exercise)
Shuffle versus Step
Keeping range when you have more reach
3. Sword Placement and Blocking.
· Grips:
-French
-Hammer
-Pommel
(Ask for volunteer to show basic sword placement.)
-Sword placement over the hip.
-Quickly work through everyone to make sure correct sword placement.
-Importance of returning back to sword position and blocking with sword on sword side.
-Emphasize the importance of blocking sword side with sword. Not shield.
4. Shield placement.
-Basic how to and how not to
-Shield size
(Drill the mirror movement exercise with shield)
5. Combat Basics.
Attack and Defense:
General concept: Returning to stance
General concept: Having a plan
General concept: Attack person, not weapon.
General concept: Precision, not power or speed.
Shots (Golden Four):
High Cross:
-Why does the high cross work? (ask this)
-Explain the high cross.
-Incorrect way to throw a high cross.
-Correct version.
Butt Wrap
Shoulder Wrap
Inside hip shot (Money shot)

· Break Out: Pair people up and practice for a few minutes. Go around and correct/critique/compliment.

Levels & Range:
-Closing: High cross protection, relying on your solid defense.
-Explain benefits of different levels/ranges
-Demonstrate with the shots.
-Delivering: Never bend at waist. Use your knees to get low.
-Leg shots: Why turtleing is retarded, how to incorporate levels, and how to destroy turtlers.

· Break Out: Pair people up and practice for a few minutes. Go around and correct/critique/compliment. Use the Golden
Four.

6. Questions and other things:
-Darkside
-Against other styles
-Feints and Baits.
-Stabs.
7. Practicing at home:
-Importance of practice on a constant basis.
-Some practice routines that help with shot definition and accuracy. Punching bag.
-Block Strike drill w/ shield.
-Importance of finding multiple opponents on a consistent basis.
-Drills for foot work: jump rope.

[kiru]

General Combat 101
Instructors - Sir Drakknar, TBD

This class is going to cover a little bit of everything. It will quickly go over the major weapon combo's and discuss their relative
strengths and weakness vs. each other. The class will also feature footwork, controlling distance, teamwork, battlefield
awareness, and increasing aggression. Finally, it will show how to successfully gang up on superior fighters.

This is an excellent class for students that want to improve their Ditch Battle/Battle Game effectiveness. This class is for 101
students.

I. Major Weapon Combo’s

A. Two Swords aka Florentine
1. Excellent Offense, Good for active defense.
2. Demonstrate stance.
3. Opponents must account for 2 attacks.
4. Offers lefty shot advantage, Developing left-hand dominance is important..
5. Vulnerability to thrusts, especially poles.
6. Advantage against Shields
7. Left Side stab, Block/strike from left, Opposite side Hi/Lo

B. Sword and Shield
1. Excellent Defense, Average to Poor Offense.
2. Demonstrate stance.
3. Free Block from shield.
4. Shield inhibits you almost as much as your opponent.
5. Lefties get less defense but some free shots on open side.
6. Very reliant on fakes to open up opponents defense.
7. Vulnerable to two weapon fighters, flails.
8. Advantage against poles, long weapons.
9. Stab!!!, Hip wrap, Shoulder wrap, Crossover.

C. Single Sword
1. Poor Defense, Poor Offense.
2. Demonstrate stance.
3. No simultaneous Offense and Defense.
4. Rely on controlling distance and block/strike.
5. Long sword can allow you to attack from outside of short weapon users range, reducing need for defense.
6. Very reliant on fakes to open up opponents defense.
7. Vulnerable to shields and probably everything else.
8. Advantage against none.
9. Stab!!!, Block/Strike, Shoulder wrap.

D. Sword and Madu
1. Good Defense, Good Offense.
2. Demonstrate stance.
3. Reach of Madu gives free shots against opponents at a distance.
4. Reach forces opponents to close quickly leaving them vulnerable to sword strike.
5. Use Madu to block out planes.
6. Left-handed Madu is a bad idea.
7. Fake one weapon to open up shot for the other
8. Top spikes make second close attack option.
9. Give ground to hold range.
10. Vulnerable to Polearms, Large Shields.
11. Advantage against Two Swords.
12. Madu Leg Stab!!!, Fake toward shoulder with sword and stab with Madu, Fake stab with Madu and hit shoulder with
sword.

E. Polearm
1. Poor Defense other than Range, Excellent Offense.
2. Demonstrate stance.
3. Free attacks against multiple opponents due to Reach.
4. Best with allies to provide protection against charging opponents.
5. Give ground to hold range.
6. Legg opponents to slow charges and break up lines.
7. A legged (immobile) opponent is dead unless mobile allies come to help.
8. Stab forcefully to go through weapon blocks.
9. Vulnerable to shields and flanking.
10. Advantage against Two Swords and Madu.
11. Stab!!!, Leg sweep, Fake leg and strike shoulder

F. Activity – Students divide by weapon combination and get one fight against each competing style. Instructors will
solicit comments from students and provide feedback between rounds.

G. Question and Answer

II. Controlling Distance and Reach

A. Controlling Distance
1. Know your striking range.
2. Estimate your opponent’s range (Danger Zone).
3. Keep your weight on your toes and move forward and backward without crossing your legs.
4. Keep point of the sword directed at opponent. Force opponent to fight through the length of your sword to get to
you.
5. Keep out of opponent’s range by moving back or circling.
6. Close to your effective range as quickly as possible by unexpectedly shifting to forward movement.
B. Reach
1. Reach is created by differences in weapon length as well as height/arm length.
2. Polearms, Spears, Madus, and Long Swords are all examples of Reach Weapons.
3. Reach Weapons allow “free” attacks that opponents without reach weapons must block while closing to Short
Weapons range.
4. Reach Weapons are at a significant disadvantage once opponents are within close range.
5. It can be effective to pair a Reach Weapon Fighter with a Short weapon fighter.
6. Reach Weapons are also very useful for creating momentary 2 vs. 1 situations.
7. The normal counters to Reach Weapons are using Reach Weapons yourself or Flanking.

C. Thrusting
1. Shortest distance between two points
2. Less windup and travel time makes shot harder to block.
3. Thrusts give greatest effective reach.
4. Shot speed is good with no late directional changes.

D. Arm Seeking
1. Arm seeking can be a part of reach.
2. An opponent’s sword arm is generally the closest part of their body.
3. Attacking the sword arm often provides the least opening for a counter-attack.
4. Use wrap shot to avoid hand blocks on arm hits.
5. Always follow up a successful arm hit with a second hit to the dead arm or sword held in the dead arm.

E. Activity – Students divide into pairs with one short and one longer weapon per pair. Students fight with a focus on
controlling distance. The long weapon user tries to hold open the distance to get “free shots”, while the short
weapon user tries to stay out of range and then quickly close into short range. Simo’s count as wins for the short
weapon user. Every 5 fights, they should switch weapons. Instructors will observe and provide feedback.

F. Question and Answer

III. Ganging up on opponents

A. Movement
1. Slower partner should lead.
2. Hold 90 degree angle between you and your partner with opponent as the point the two lines meet.
3. As opponent maneuvers, team should swivel with closer partner moving back while farther one moves forward so
distance between opponent and both partners remains equal.
4. Do not allow opponent to line you up so that one partner is screening the other.
5. If opponent is immobilized (legged) partners can increase angle to 180 degrees.
B. Activity – Student two man teams fight 3 rounds against an instructor. All use a single short sword each..
Instructors will solicit comments from students and provide feedback between rounds.

C. Tactics
1. Attack when target is attacking your ally.
2. Leg target to reduce mobility.
3. Exploit any reach advantage by holding open range.
4. Force target to sword block to disrupt their attacks while allies try for kill shot.
5. Strike Hi/Low on opposite sides of target.
6. Coordinated rush.
7. Do not get legged or strung out!

D. Activity – Students fight a Hold the Field style match where one “Hero” starts out fighting two opponents. If the
“Hero” wins, an additional opponent is added. If the “Hero” is killed, then the student that got the killing blow is the
next “Hero” even if they also died from a simo. Instructors will solicit comments from students and provide feedback
between rounds.

E. Question and Answer.

IV. Line Fighting

A. Movement
1. If you retreat you make your comrades vulnerable.
2. Flank early, flank often. Flanking gives a chance to win a battle by winning one 1v1 fight
3. Flanking helps field awareness by keeping all opponents in front of you.
4. Turn an opponent by flanking so that the guy next to you gets a free kill.
5. Give ground if you can pull a superior or multiple opponents from the fight.

B. Tactics
1. Look for opportunities to “sneak attack” opponents near you that are focused on your allies.
2. Reach weapons can tilt the odds in your favor.
3. Fight with a Partner.
4. Communicate with your allies, “Dead” and “Legged” calls are vital.

C. Activity – Students fight a series of-ditch battles where each person has a chance to flank and reach weapons are
used at different times. After each throw, Instructors will solicit feedback from students about what good things they
saw people do. and provide feedback.


V. General Combat Tips and Wrap-Up

A. General Combat Tips
1. If you can’t be good, be aggressive.
2. Take every opponent seriously and feel confident you can beat every opponent.
3. A longer sword gives reach without losing much speed.
4. Do not get so focused in who you are fighting that you do not pay attention to what is going on around you.
5. Take out insurance if possible. This means keep swinging till you are certain your opponent is dead.

B. Award Prizes and Wrap Up
1. Award prizes to student with most participation/enthusiasm.
2. Offer verbal encouragement individually tailored to other students based on their participation.
3. Tell students that they can grab you for 15 minutes of one on one time during free periods.
4. Final question and answer
5. Solicit feedback on improving class.

[kiru]

Basic Two Man Teams 2010

Intro –

Two-man teams requires you and your partner to compliment each -other. If you and
your teammate aren’t getting value out of each other you are doing a sub-optimal job.
You might win if you each beat your guy one on one but its still sub-opimal


Fundamental concepts
o Finding ways to get more than 1-1 at least momentarily.

I look at all team fights like this.

Triangle theory and demo

Explain other forms of better than 1-1
Bad angles, rears
Weapon or skill match ups.
o Controlling the fight. Making the opponents play your game.
o Communicate – Call your deaths. Use this in the exercise.

To split or not:

Even though I am a huge believer in flanking when playing with teams bigger than 2, the
theory doesn’t translate perfectly since part of the fun of flanking lies in getting bad
angles. Just splitting doesn’t always serve this purpose because the opposition has an
option to try to make it into two 1-1s.


Advantages of splitting -
o It breaks the opponents ability to work as a team
o If it works it can threaten both opponents with back shots. Better than 1-1.
o Requires less coordination for you.
o Sheer aggression will put off some teams
o Allows you to work favorable match ups (S&B vs pole)
o Splitting just to split your opponents into favorable match-ups.

Often one of you looks to kill or wound while the other holds

This gives you better than a 1-1.
o If you and your partner are significantly better than your opponents as
individuals, splitting can hardly hurt you and has all the same advantages.
o Against newer teams this works even if you are relatively new yourself.
Their teamwork can be more easily interrupted and they are more likely to
go back to back. Sheer aggression is also more likely to force them into
playing your game.

Disadvantages of splitting
o Necessity giving your opponents 1-1s for a small time. Make sure you can
live through it.
o If you split too much, the opponents can get better than a 1-1 on one of
you for a little bit.
o Splitting still requires high attention to you partner.

Advantages of not splitting – Try to get more power synergistically than the
power you can bring to bear as individuals plus the power of breaking up the
opponent’s teamwork
o Very good teamwork can allow you to get more benefit from your partner
than your opponents get from each other.
o Protecting greater range, which allows you to bring better than 1-1 to bear.

Poles are an extreme example of this.
o You can play off each other in more ways.
o Protecting one of your team members is at too much of a disadvantage in
the momentary 1-1.
o All of these things require quick action to force opponents who plan to
split from dictating it into their fight.

You also need a plan for this
o Staying together doesn’t mean not moving or allowing your opponents to
dictate where you go. You can move together. In fact that’s the way I
prefer to fight more than 2.

Exercise - Split or not – 6 fights, 2 must split. 2 Must not (give a range advantage).
2 choice.

Fighting side by side - Basic theory
o Wing-leader/Wing-man concept

Wing-leader –
Physical leader
More aggressive
More self-directed

Wing-man –
Faster
More defense
Better group fighter
o Stay together – If fighting this way stay within 2 steps.
o Choosing the right partner

Complimentary Styles

Weapons that work together

What if there is no choice

Zen and the art of Two man

Brief Partner discussion questions


Fighting two against two
o Making match-ups (splitting or not)

Strong against strong or vice versa

Steal what the opponent wants to do (make them fight your fight)

A plan that trades your death for their wound sucks even if it is the
better fighter’s wound.

Use your psychological advantage and your partners.
o Cooperative footwork (if you stay close)

Don’t get in your partners way
If you are rush in same direction

Body contact can be better than speech

Footwork can fool your opponent but probably not your partner.

Leg Switching
o Getting shots for and from your partner (if you stay close)

Make your man interested by looking at his partner
You take advantage yourself.

Temp your partner’s man by showing something
Your partner takes advantage.
Leg bait
Elbow Bait
Make a very aggressive attack on your man leaving
yourself open to his partner. Only if your partner can be
sure to clean up.
Fake by leaving your partner to dry. Works with Shield
men. Especially

Multiple angles of attack
Classic Hi-low
Opposite sides. Low-low or high-High with motion.
o Positioning to help your partner (if you split)

Pincer (turn and burn)
Breaks team work and concentration
May open backs
Steals options.

How to react to their split
Keep the initiative
Avoid getting back to back
Hard to come back together
o But easy to enter the your buddy’s fight
Hurry and delay
o One of you hurries and the other delays

Exercise - Cross shot - 2 on 2 – 3 fights. Winning- 1pt. Killing cross opponent when
both are alive. 3pt.


Countering
o Opponents that split.

You can split too. 1-1s are not necessarily good but certainly
better than giving them backs.

Get quick legs on them.

Take advantage of the monetary 2-1.
Both of you quickly to one of them.
Speed is key since they are trying to back to back you.
More risky

Opponent switching
Has to be planned and very quick
Totally worth it for a pole
Otherwise deepened on specifics
o Opponents that want to stay together

Get a shield on the pole.

Don’t give them reasonable leg shots. (right range)

Stay a threat so they can’t 2-1 your partner (right range).

Keep looking for your position to get better than 1-1 on backs.

Special combos
o Poles

When fighting with poles Pole is wing leader

Wingman covers pole but pole sets tempo.

Pole needs to be willing to attack (especially stab.

They will split you or rush. Anything that breaks that is good.

When fighting against pole rush or split them
The longer you let them keep range and protection the
worse it is.
o Other combos

Flail is real good against shield but less so on Florentine

Madus and down spears act as better range.
They can therefore slow the other teams tempo
Use against fast fighters

Exercise - The Plan – Let each team fight and then class guesses the plan.


Fighting two against many
o Here your disadvantage is that you must not only fight more opponents but
that they come from a wider angle.
o The choice to split or not is about the same.

Line fighting is ill advised because they can get more threats on
each of you. (2.5-1)

Splitting removes this but precludes lining guys up.

Mistakes you make are more deadly

Splitting makes opponent’s teamwork easier too
o Your key is mobility (especially if staying together)

Move together and make sure you are supporting each other.

Move away and around, trying to line them up. Don’t hesitate to
jump on any one of them that gives you an opportunity.

Exposes fewer arcs of fire

It takes advantage of the lazy instinct in humans

It allows you to take advantage of the aggressive, by:
Backing out
Only using one of you to deal with the rush
Hitting lots of legs
o Two cooperate better than many use this
o Both partners need very strong personal combat awareness to make this
work. The odds are still against you.
o If you are the group. Use the techniques taught today and you damn well
better win.

Don’t let them line you up

Stick together

Communicate

Exercise - 2-on-4 – No special rules.

[kiru]

Course Notes for:
Tourney Fu – Thinking Like a Winner
Michael Hammer of God
Sword Knight Boot Camp 2003
We handed out the sheets and took the self evaluation from
www.jeffjanssen.com.
We got a show of hands on results and then I showed a stripped version of the
following:
95 to 100 A Mental Champion. You know how to win the Mental Game.
85 to 94 On the verge of becoming a Mental Champion.
75 to 84 Improving your Mental Game will help take you to a Championship level.
65 to 74 Improving your Mental Game will significantly help your game.
64 and less You need to work on your mental game.
Report that instructors averaged 79 with the least physically gifted even higher. I
got an 88.
It is all about Self-confidence. I will keep coming back to that.
The magic acronym is SPARK.

Set Goals
Practice and Prepare
Always stay positive
Relax and enjoy yourself
Key visualization techniques
Set Goals
Goal setting also gives you a realistic basis for and level of Self-confidence. It is
the achievement of goals that build confidence most readily. Thus the process
should be to set a goal, achieve it and then set another higher one. Goals should
be Tangible, measurable, and readily attainable. Large goals like ‘Becoming a
Warlord’ are not readily attainable. Break them up. Goals like ‘Get better’ are
very hard to measure. There are three types of fighting goals I see in Amtgard:
1. Tourney Goals – Beware of these becoming unattainable. Goals like placement in
some events or winning some number of fights are better than winning a tournament
unless you are already pretty good. Tourney goals are still important.
2. Practice goals - Practice goals are things like I will spar for four hours a week on top of
fighter practice and game day. Practice goals serve in two ways since they build
confidence and they build skills. Practice goals are also great because they are always
attainable. Whether you practice as much as you committed to or not is always your
choice. Fitness goals fit in here too..
3. Related but non-tourney goals – Other things that help you feel better about your
fighting and make you better without directly improving your chance in a tourney.
Dalos and Arthon have a contest to invent new spin shots. By definition the Dalos
Double spin will get you killed in a tourney but if he makes it work on Arthon he feels
better about his fighting skills. Fighting with disadvantages in practice (like short or
heavy weapons) also falls into this category.
4. Time Management - set a goal of time management for events and regular meetings.
Since I am a family man and can only attend events for so long, I make the most of it.
I plan on hitting the ditch field for most of the event. If there is no ditch, I occupy the
field and spar until enough fighters show up to ditch. Participating in battle games
would likewise be a non-tourney goal. It might not improve your fighting directly, but
it at leaves gives another avenue to fight.
Practice and Prepare
I break Practice and prepare into four sub headings.
1. Physical practice – Any exercise and conditioning is good. Things like drills, dynnabe,
racquetball and the like are better. Sparing is the best physical practice for Amtgard.
As already mentioned it builds confidence and skill set at same time. It also builds
instincts to keep you from having to think while fighting in tournament. There is not
time for such a distraction. Physical Practice is also the time to analyze your skill sets
and improve them. Don‟t spend time in tourneys thinking about where you went
wrong. Do that in practice.


2. While any exercise and conditioning is good and actually fighting is best, there is a lot
that can be done with choosing the best exercises. When I was king of the Celestial
Kingdom, I did a lot of traveling. I also stopped working out. When I did, I noticed
my fighting got a lot better. I couldn't figure out why. Eventually, I came up with the
theory that the exercise I was doing (building bulk) was interfering with my fighting
skill set. About three years ago, I hired a personal trainer and got three sessions. My
goal: to build speed and be competitive as a fencer. I was put on a "core building"
program. It worked really well for me. I came to the realization that I was the kind of
fighter that had to be in good physical condition to get to the next step. My body
adapted very well physical practice. I incorporated parts of Thor's footwork class into
my workout. I also began to compete in soccer, partly because I enjoy soccer and
partly to improve my mobility. My point: you need to know what kind of physical
practice to engage in, and stick with areas where you experience success and returns.
3. Proper planning - Planning can eliminate distractions, which may hurt you in tourney.
Make sure you have your own good equipment for the tournament. Looking for stuff to
borrow and using stuff you are not comfortable with is an avoidable distraction. Avoid
it. Have water on hand and get anything else that you might want to make a store trip
for. Trips in the middle of a tournament are also distractions that can be avoided. Other
Amtgard tasks like taking or giving reeves tests or judging quals should be avoided if
you want be your best in the tournament.
4. Mental Preparation - Spar before the tourney. Use best combo and do it to limber and
get confident. You will not do anything significant to help an area where you need
practice in a few minutes on tourney day. Take your best combo and just mow to make
yourself believe.
5. Have a specific plan for bad things that may happen in the tournament. Having a plan
allows you to shake it off. Bad things happen to all of us. Deal with it quickly and get
on with the business of winning. Examples of bad things are sluffers, bad draws, losses
that should have been avoided, bad reeves, etc. Think about how you have dealt with it
successfully in the past and seek to duplicate.
Always think positive
“I have lost tourneys I was sure I was gonna win but I never won one I thought I
was gonna loose.”
- Michael
1. Use specific positive phrases like: “I can beat this guy”, “I am on fire”, “Take it one
fight at a time”. From professional Sports the Colorado Avalanche won the 2001
Stanley Cup. Their playoff slogan was „Mission 16W‟ not „Mission Stanley Cup‟. (The
class then had to come up with two personal attributes that could help them win
tournaments. Positive personal attributes.)

2. Never use negative phrases like: “I am so dead.”, “I hate fighting Thor. He always
kicks my ass.”, “I can‟t believe I am loosing.”, "I always suck in tourneys.” “The
reeves are out to get me.” Negative thoughts are viscous too. I used to worry so much
about losing to "this" guy that I would get careless. I would hesitate instead of just
going through business as usual.
3. There is a cycle I've noticed: increased confidence leads to greater effort which leads
to better performance which leads to increased confidence. Getting the cycle started is
the only catch. You have to believe.
4. Be confident of what you can do. Think in terms of specific goals (I can get this guy
with this wrap shot). Overconfidence can be a mental flaw. It hurts later confidence.
Being positive always is good being wildly unrealistic is not. In addition to hurting
confidence it can make you stupid. I see three states, negative thinking, confidence,
and overconfidence or arrogance. Negative thinking is the worst since it is harmful in
the sort and long terms. Confidence is the best state and comes from positive phrasing.
Overconfidence comes where you force your positive thinking far ahead of your
abilities. Its bad because in the short term it can cause you to play with opponents or
be careless but in the long term is very dangerous because it can interfere with the real
power of positive messages because your mind knows when you are lying to yourself.
5. Psyching out the opponent – Part of your mental outlook depends on how confident
your opponent appears and vice versa. Remember he is probably equally nervous.
There are some old many tricks you can use. If any of these challenge your personal
code of honor don‟t do them. Still understanding them is important because your
opponent might want to use them. First start the fight with a firm handshake. It is a
great show of confidence and since it shows respect for your opponent it might reduce
the chance of him sluffing you in return. Dressing and acting serious will make it more
likely that you will be taken as such. Avoid jester‟s caps. Taking the field at the highest
point and with your back to the sun can give you advantages. You gain a psychological
advantage by increasing your perceived height as well as putting the sun in your
opponent‟s eyes to start off with. If you feel this is questionable honor-wise, then line
up side to the sun to make sure your opponent can‟t do it to you. It is also important to
look guys in the eye. It exudes confidence and it might scare your opponent. They
might betray actions with looks. You won‟t betray actions with looks as long as you
are looking them in the eye.
Relax and enjoy yourself
I break relax and enjoy yourself into two parts.
1. Learn to Relax – This happens beforehand. Deep breathing exercises, hot tubs, and
massages physically relax the body and also bring mental peace. Sir Rook of the CK
was a HS footballer in Texas where it is serious business. He did all many of these
relaxation things there and they carried right over to Amtgard.
2. Superstitions and pre-competition/tourney rituals (like the lucky t-shirt, always
wearing black, or whatever) are very common in sports because they help you get back
to a previous successful state. If you have a successful tourney copy small details the
next time. This kind of thinking builds focus.
3. Enjoy your self – This happens during the tourney. Find something you love about
tourneys and emphasize that element in your own mind and look forward to it at each
tourney. In general, warlords love tourneys. Everyone warlord I talked to loves
fighting and most love tourneys.
4. Remember what you love about fighting. There was a point where I was so worried
about the win, that I would avoid fighting someone I thought could beat me, not in
tourneys, but during regular days. I saw it as a precursor to an outcome at a tourney.
When I stepped back from the "tourney" mentality, I enjoyed regular fighting more. I
love flanking. I love taking down a side. I love making jokes, running around, even
getting killed. When I remembered what I liked about fighting on any given day, it put
me at ease on tourney day.
Key Visualization Techniques
1. Visualize Success – Use specific visualizations of past successes. If you beat a
Wolfram in practice with a wrap-shot over his madu take a moment before a fight with
him to visualize yourself doing it again. You might want to use a different move this
time but the specific visualization will build your confidence for any move. These
visualizations should be short term just like your goals. Picturing yourself beating your
next opponent works much better than picturing yourself as the tourney winner.
2. Visualize overcoming challenges – The specific bad things that can happen and which
you mad plans to cope with can also benefit from visualization. If your recovery plan
for a first round loss is to come back in the finals and beat the guy twice, then you
should visualize that.
3. Visualization works best when linked to belief. After that, I went years where I took
second and third place in tourneys. It was nice to have a two and a half year run on
consecutively finishing in the top three, but it hurt my faith in ever winning again. The
moment of truth for me: Rand told me at an event after a few rounds of ditching,
"you're already one of us, all you have to do is get the belt". It meant so much to me.
Being a sword knight is to belong to a peerage. It is a very much like an MVP club or
all star crew. To know that I was counted among that group made me believe that my
last tourney win was not only possible, but inevitable. I called my next tourney, and I
won it.

[kiru]


Block 1 – The Basics

Activity - Few moments: What do you think your responsibilities while fighting on a
team? (allow brainstorming and discussion) : 5 min or less
o Middle-Line Responsibilities - It is your responsibility to (5 mins):

Make sure that your guy doesn’t kill your neighbor as long as your
neighbor if fulfilling his responsibilities.

Capitalize on your guy failing in his responsibilities.

Not harm your teammates.

Communicate vital information (dead, flanked, behind, etc.) list?

Give your life for the good of the team (ego, flash, etc. do not
belong in a team fight)

Stop your guy from getting behind or around your teammates.

Arrange match-ups with favorable numbers differences (i.e. 2-on-
1) for yourself or your teammates.
o Communication (2 mins):

Some things are requisite and you must communicate them:
Dead
Flanker/Behind
I’m approaching (wording)

Some help a lot but are not required:
Armed
Legged
Responsibility changes (such as movement or other’s
status)
Movement

Brevity is effective
Communication: 1 name and 1 word
Learn names / nicknames
Use what they respond to.

Communicating the plan
Discuss in advance
Can exhort
Changes in plan can confuse your team or alert bad guys
Can alert the other team
o Making openings for your teammates (2 min):

Baiting
Losing ground, looking vulnerable (make it too tasty a
treat)
Faking overextenstion

Baiting your neighbor’s guy (instead of your own)
Pull forward (really risky)
Faking overextension
Small, sharp move. (sound, hitting the ground, little lunge)
Free shot, just to make neighbor’s guy worry

Leg baiting (usually a trade of the leg for whatever you can get)
o Cross-Shots (3 min):

Cross shots are the key to middle-line team fighting.

Works best when your guy is conservative (there are ways of
making him cautious)

Watch for neighbor’s guy to do something dumb

It is easier to x-shot sword side (x-shot off side opens you up to x-
shots, guy on off side pays less attention, but its still a hard make,
Florentine helps (make a left x-shot))

Fake the x-shot (especially with glances) to open up your guy.
(may be intermediate) shot goes for the arm.

Be careful… making x-shots sets you up to be open yourself.

Try starting with legs. Arms are harder.

Activity: In canyon drill: Point game. Kill person in front: 1 pt. Neighbor: 3pts. 10
min


Block 2 - Intermediate
o Flanking (2 min)

Flanking is moving to get angles other that from the front, for the
purposes of getting better than normal matchup or trades)

Amtgarders generally prefer flank to the right (shields in, left
defense sword in)

Works for battlegames too (shield stops spellballs from core
opposition)

In the absence of overwhelming threat (such as a pole or wizard), it
is the duty of the outside fighters to attempt to flank… therefore
the team with the strongest fighters on the outside will actually
flank. When overwhelming threat exists it is those same fighter’s
duty to suppress said threat and think about flanking only once the
threat is disposed of.

If both teams are matched, the battle will spread out on the flanks
until one or the other breaks… that team will actually flank.

Since it is in the favor of both teams to flank, it is the responsibility
of the outside guys to push hard and fast in order to maximize
chances of successfully flanking. Incumbent.
o How to Execute a Flank (1 min):

Your outside guys pull slightly away from their team mates and the
outermost begin moving out and around. Once the flankers have
“won the flank” (i.e. done whatever is needed to allow them to
flank, like beating opposing counter-flankers) they begin a hard
and dedicated push against the line, especially trying to get back-
attacks and split attention and line cohesion.

If terrain prevents you moving around your opposition, you have to
move through them. Kill, kill, kill.
o Who should flank? (1min)
Your flankers should be some of your better fighters (but should be
those able to do the work…some good fighters don’t like to move,
or like 1-on-1 fights to much).

Enough skill should be committed to the flank that it gives your
team a legitimate chance (at least even) to run the line.

Corollary: If you’re a good fighter, it is incumbent upon you to
learn to be a good flanker.
o Posting (counter-flanking) (2min)

When don’t you flank? When you can’t.

Why can’t you?
They already have you flanked.
They are better than you are.
Terrain, and you can’t push through the guys in front of
you.

As a post it is likely that you are at the end. What do you do? You
can:
Go for legs. Helps stop the flankers from being effective.
Go for simuls. Riskier but more helpful.
Remember you communication responsibilities.
Make your fights take as long as possible, without giving
dangerous ground (i.e. putting your teammates in an
untenable position)
o Terrain (2 mins)

This means, like, landscape yo.

The only terrain we care about is impassable terrain on the
outside(s).

Terrain changes flanking in the following ways:
You have to push through instead of go around to flank.
It gives significant advantage to the team who has the
terrain on their left.
It slows the time it takes for the line to collapse.
It can cause people to make extremely wide movement
around the terrain… this is often a sneakier rather than a
harder flank and must be watched for, but can be guarded
by a counter-flanker of significantly less skill (often taken
from the middle of the line) than a hard flank.
It can mean loading more skilled fighters on the left to hold
the flank against aggressors or even to flank from the left.
o Damage Control (2 min)

Proper communication is the key to damage control.

It is the duty of the person who notices the problem to
communicate it.

It is the duty of the nearest person who notices to stop the flanker,
usually at any cost, unless there is already someone performing
that duty.

If you believe you are best capable of stopping the damage, you
should self nominate to take care of the flanker. Since the flanker
usually has to be stopped one-on-one, your best one-one fighter
should usually be the one to go.

Activity: Let em fight 5 times, rotate through flankers, breakdown after each (you
may not switch positions): 15 min.
o Adjusting for uneven teams (1 min)


Block 3 – More advanced
o Pole arms (5 min)

Pole-arms are the exception to many of these rules. A pole allows
you to considerably extend your threat radius at the expense of
defense. In a team situation a teammate can take over the
defensive responsibilities and this specialization can make you
both better.

responsibilities do not change with a pole except that the Defense
and Offense switch a little
The teammate without the pole is responsible for keeping
both his guy and the pole’s guy from making a successful
charge. He trades this for little offensive responsibility.
The Pole is responsible for keeping both enemies back with
his larger threat radius.
The Pole is responsible for attacking often and quickly.
Lots of bad shots are better than not enough good shots.
In terms of the responsibilities listed above, this means the
guard is not only responsible for making sure his opponent
doesn’t get his neighbor but also he is partially responsible
for making sure that the pole’s opponent doesn’t get the
pole.
The pole user takes over some of the responsibility for
taking advantage the the mistakes of his guard’s opponent.

Guards on either side of the pole make this work even better but
the theory is the same.

Flanking
The addition of a pole doesn’t change the basic fact that
you should always flank.
However, the coordination required to allow two (or more)
people to move together is enough of a challenge as to
make flanking as a pole/guard team significantly harder.
Also the greater total threat radius that the unit has, makes
them considerably harder to flank against. Often this
means that poles don’t flank as much but do hold a flank a
lot..
This can mean that it is a good idea to put the poles on the
left flank.

Flanking against
Comment [WJ1]: We had this on our original
outline and I would like to speak to it. We didn’t
outline it further and there may be time issues
though.
When flanking against a pole it is very important to flank
wide. You are seeking to split the pole and the guard.
Since the pole is weaker on defense (especially against a
shield man) you want to split tem enough that you can get a
1-on-1 against the pole. This is sort of equivalent to getting
a 2-1 on another fighter.
Instead of trying to 2-1 the outside guy (usually the guard)
you are tying to 1-1 both the pole and the guard.
Using a pole to counter a pole is also an acceptable
strategy. If your pole is longer it is often a good one.
Otherwise, It can be a longish process, reducing the effect
of both poles on the battle. You might not want this. A
good rush with a shield will kill a pole more reliably among
skilled fighters.

Terrain
Poles can make very good use of impassable terrain. The
greater threat radius makes it hard to engage and kill them
and where they can’t be easily flanked, they become that
much more dangerous.
o The Plan (3 min):

Plan for the goal, not for the specifics.

Using your best fighters to best advantage

Using your resources (pole, etc)

Using terrain to best advantage (pole anchor)

Choosing roles (flankers, pole-guards, etc.) and positioning

Assigning matchups

Assigning codenames to tactics and fighters (like Iceman or
Maverick)

Giving pep-talks

Covering for skill deficits

[kiru]

well that's all i have for now I still have some really old notes somewhere when i find them i'll post them but for now this should help. well let me know what you all think of this dose it help?

[Grizzly]

thanks for the notes man ill be trying to implement some of them into my combat

[kiru]

Yw and I hope they help there Ar a lot more notes too. Just need to find them